Saturday, March 31, 2012

How To Resurface Kitchen Cabinet Doors

By simply knowing how to resurface kitchen cabinet doors, there will be no more need for you to replace your existing kitchen cabinets. For you to save a great deal of amount from restoring the surface of the doors, simply consider the following steps on how to resurface the doors of your kitchen cabinet. Give them a brand new look and make them last for a longer time.

    Take the kitchen cabinet doors off the cabinet. Taking the kitchen cabinet doors off the cabinet can be simply done by taking the hinges on the doors off first. If you do not want to miss the order of the doors especially if there are different sizes, it is best to label them with numbers or tags. You surely would not like the idea of wondering where to reattach the doors later on.
    Take the hardware off the kitchen cabinet doors. Once you have taken the doors off, focus on their hardware. It will be easier to reassemble the door if you keep the hardware. When removing them, make sure that the knobs, pulls, and screws are still intact.
    Sand the surface of the doors. The best sandpaper to use for this task is one that has medium grit since this is the universal grade of sandpaper. When sanding the surface of the kitchen cabinet door, do not merely concentrate on sanding the front sides. After sanding those parts, work on the opposite sides.

    Wipe down the surface. After sanding, there will be debris left on the surface of the doors. Use a damp cloth to remedy this. It is essential to wipe down the surface to get rid of any debris and to make sure that it is smooth.
    Apply primer coat or stain coat. This is the preliminary step of painting the surface of the doors. Be sure to have a light primer coat or light stain coat. After applying liberally on the front side, let the surface dry, then shift to the opposite side. If you prefer to apply stain coat, sand the doors first with fine grit sandpaper. Wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to remove any debris. Apply a second coating whenever desired.
    Apply the paint. Brush the surface with gentle strokes of paint. Once you have painted the entire surface of the front side, let it dry first before moving on to the other side. Depending on the wood of which the door was made, the application of second coat of paint may be necessary or not. Most of the time, if the surface is not even, it is mandatory to apply another coat of paint. Otherwise, once the surface became dry, that is the time you can tell if there is a need for such.
    Reattach the doors to the cabinet. Get the hinges and reattach them to the doors and place them on their original position as part of the kitchen cabinet. Afterward, replace the hardware.


Never be reluctant on resurfacing the kitchen cabinet doors if you really want to restore its original appeal without spending too much on replacing the entire cabinet.

Friday, March 30, 2012

How To Seal Natural Stone Countertops



When you plan out your home, there are a lot of things you take into consideration. One perfect example is your countertop. Now this may seem like a minor detail but knowing the type of material to be used in each and every part of your house is important. Most household decorators recommend using natural stone. Natural stone countertops exude beauty and simplicity. It is the ideal finishing touch to your already beautifully designed kitchen. Countertops made of natural stone not only add that classy finish, but is also fit for your budget. You just need to take good care of it with the appropriate maintenance, proper care, and use the most durable countertop sealer to keep its natural form for years and years. Sealing countertop made of natural stone is a very vital part in maintaining this part of the kitchen. A homeowner like you can make use of these helpful tips on how to seal natural stone countertops.

    Clean the natural stone countertop. Prior to applying the stone seal on your countertop, you must first wipe it clean and get rid of any dust or filth that has accumulated. Use a nice and dry rug to do this. It is also advised to sanitize with a countertop cleaner or any kitchen cleaner suitable. Let it dry for a few hours.

    Put on the countertop sealant. Depending on the instruction on the sealant box, you can use either of the following to apply it:  a rag, a brush, or a spray. Make sure you know which one suits best on your natural stone countertop before wiping, brushing, or spraying any sealant on it. Take one portion of about 5 square foot per application. You need to let it sit for more or less 5 minutes for the sealant to percolate in the stone. Again, let this layer dry up before putting on a second layer. Wipe clean with a cloth.
    Repeat procedure. When you’re done with one section, you can now continue with the rest of the portions. Again, clean the stone first using a clean cloth let it dry before applying the sealant. Once it’s dry you can now brush, wipe, or spray on the sealer. Let it dry once more to allow the stone to absorb the sealant, and then apply the second layer of sealant.


Your natural stone countertops are now clean and sealed. Sealant layers will still go through wear and tear over time therefore you need to maintain it and go over the steps again every year. You can see if your natural stone countertop needs a re-application of sealant if it darkens when spilled or poured water sits there for at least 30 minutes. Remember to clean your countertop first depending on the type of stone used. If it’s really grubby, it is advised to use an alkaline cleanser to tap easily into the dirt. You can use cloth made of cotton or microfiber to dry it up perfectly. It is very important to let the stone dry out so you won’t go wasting your sealant away.

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

How To Repair Drywall Holes Caused by Wallpaper Removal


If you take out the paper from your walls, it’s likely that you will find little holes and imperfections revealed on its surfaces. It’s important that you repair these flaws specially if you’re intent on painting over the walls afresh, if you want your redecorating job to be as polished and excellent as possible.

    Prepare the needed materials. You will need the following: spackling compound (available at hardware stores and home improvement shops), a putty knife or spackle knife, medium-grit sandpaper, and a face mask.
    Prepare the surface. It’s very important that you thoroughly clean the area surrounding the hole before you apply the spackling compound to it. That’s because if there is any trace of dirt or grit on the area the compound may not adhere to the surface properly. Clean the area using a sponge or rag and a soap solution.
    Know how to choose the spackling compound. A spackling compound is specially-formulated to cover up holes and imperfections in surfaces such as walls. There are two general types of this compound: a ready-to-use version, and a powdered version. The ready-to-use version is a great option, as the spackle is already premixed in order to address most repair needs. The powdered version is good if you want to create your own mixture, especially if you need to have a denser compound for deeper holes.

    Another option for you is to buy spackling compounds that turn a different color once they are completely dry. This is very helpful because it is essential that the compound be dry before it is sanded or painted over. Remember that how long it will take for the compound to dry will depend on the depth of the hole to be covered; so if you’re hesitant about making guesses then this type of compound could be the best option for you.
    Apply the spackling compound. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions very carefully when applying the compound. Use the putty knife to place the compound in the hole. When applying the compound, you will make hand movements similar to when you are applying frosting to a cake. Make sure that you cover not just the hole but about ½ inch all around it. Try to level the compound with the surface of the wall. Also, make sure that you cover your nose and mouth with a face mask because spackling compound could cause respiratory problems.
    Know what to do if the hole is too large. In case the hole is more than 3 inches in diameter, the spackling compound will not be enough; you will have to fill the hole up with a mesh repair patch, also available at home improvement stores. Simply place the mesh in the hole, and then apply the spackling compound as usual.
    Let the compound dry. As mentioned, it is absolutely essential that you let the spackling compound dry before you do anything to it. Read the manufacturer’s instructions on how long you have to wait for it to dry completely.
    Sand the compound. Afterwards, sand the compound so that it will be as level with the surface of the wall as possible. Use medium-grit sandpaper for this purpose.
    Paint over the area. Once the hole has been covered up and the spot is smooth with the rest of the surface of the wall, it’s now ready to be painted over.


Repairing drywall holes isn’t that hard, but it’s best that you use the best materials for this activity, to ensure the best results. Good luck!

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

How To Remove Chalk From Aluminum Siding



Does your aluminum siding look old, grimy and dingy? Well, that's a lot to be said about the appearance of your home. Thankfully, there are a lot of things you could do yourself to improve the aluminum siding, and one of these is to paint it over. Another way is to inspect the siding for chalk or for mildew; these naturally appear if the aluminum siding is more than a few years' old. If you notice that there does seem to be chalk in the aluminum siding, here are some steps to deal with this situation:

    Know what cleaning formula to use. Use high-quality laundry detergent soap, although it's best to buy specially-formulated commercial aluminum siding solution, which you could buy in hardware stores and home improvement shops. If you do opt to use laundry detergent soap, simply mix one part soap to about six parts water in a bucket.
    Prepare your home. First, you will need to make sure that all doors and windows are closed to ensure that water will not get indoors. If there are garden plants near your home, it's a good idea to cover them first with plastic (but do remember to uncover them as soon as you're done cleaning!) so that they won't be dripped on with the cleaning solution.
    Prepare the materials. You will need the following: a hose; a ladder (to get to the higher areas); a soft-bristled, long-handled brush; and the detergent or aluminum siding solution.

    Know how to clean the aluminum siding. Clean the aluminum siding in 5-foot sections, to give you a more systematic approach to this project. It's also best that you clean from the top going down. Scrub at the aluminum siding in each 5-foot section, and use the hose to rinse off the cleaning solution. Concentrate on scrubbing away the chalk. If you suspect that there's also mildew apart from the chalk, you could scrub in bleach in the spot, as well. Do remember never to let the soap solution dry on your aluminum siding; as soon as you scrub off the chalk and dirt, rinse it off right away with the hose. Otherwise, the aluminum siding will be left with unsightly white spots.
    Opt not to use a pressure washer. Some experts suggest that you use pressure washer to remove chalk and stubborn grime, but the problem with this is that it could cause the aluminum siding to become weaker. If you do decide to use a pressure washer, it's best that you set it in the lowest possible setting.
    Remove chalk before it gets severe. Do know that chalk, once it's left to build up and adhere more strongly to the aluminum siding, will become very hard to get rid of. That's why it's important that you make it a point to regularly inspect your home's exterior for chalk and mildew build-up, and address the problem as soon as it occurs. It's recommended that you clean your home's aluminum siding at least once a year.


There you have it! These are some of the most important guidelines to remember in order to remove chalk from aluminum siding. This is actually surprisingly simple to do, but you will definitely have to allot a few hours – about three or five, depending on the size of your house – to complete this activity.

Saturday, March 17, 2012

How To Re-Finish a Bookcase



Is your bookcase already old? Does it look a bit worn out? Well, don’t toss it out of your house. A bookcase is one of the furniture pieces that you can readily transform and give it a new look. Of course, you just have to exert a little effort to make your project more successful. Here are some simple steps on how you can re-finish your bookcase:

    Commence your refurbishing job by taking out the shelves from your old bookcase. Check out your bookcase’s interiors. Most of them have detachable shelves. If the shelves are already fixed (or immovable), go to the next step.
    Inspect your old bookcase. Do you see some old paint? Are there some stains? You can take care of them by using your power sander. Remove the paint or the stain by loading your tool with sandpaper (fine grain). Follow a consistent motion. Do it back-and-forth so you don’t end up damaging the wood’s natural grain. If there are difficult areas to reach, like some edges or some corners, rely on a hand-held sanding block. If you wish to achieve a smoother surface, use another sandpaper. Choose the ultra fine type. After you have sanded all its nooks and crannies, clean up your old bookcase. Wipe out all the dust using a rag.

    Prepare to paint your old bookcase. Source a good paintbrush. Its bristles should be soft. If you are thinking of a more modern style, aim for a painted finish. Otherwise, if you favor a more traditional look, go for a stained finish.
    After applying the first coat, check out the edges and the corners. See if you need to retouch some parts. You can use a detail brush to handle them well. Then, continue by applying the second coat. If you plan to protect the natural wood and seal your intended finish, apply the third coat. It can be a matte top, a semi gloss, or a high gloss. Let the coating air dry. And voila, your bookcase should be good as new!
    Do you want to add a decorative flair to your refurbished bookcase? Then, consider dressing it up. You can conceal its contents by covering it with a nice curtain. Before buying your linen materials, measure your bookcase first. Add extra six inches to the actual width measurements. That should already account for a good allowance. Once you have your fabric, cut it lengthwise. Afterwards, sew all the four sides. Just do a basic hem around your two rectangular pieces. Proceed by creating the appropriate dowel rod space. Do it by folding down the topmost hem, allowing it to meet your fabric’s underside. Adjust so you can create a fold with a one-inch diameter. Secure the fold by applying some basic hemming. Repeat the procedure on your other rectangular piece. Attach the dowel rod on your bookcase. Position it on the front edge (uppermost part). Fix it well using a nail gun. When the dowel rod is all set, hang your curtains and be proud of what you have accomplished.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

How To Repair Broken Stairs



While your new staircase may last for quite awhile before replacement will be required, the length of its life will be dependent on how much you take care of it. This is why it is so important that you act quickly whenever you notice minor damages. Leaving even a minute damage or crack on a tread or on the riser can lead to more serious damages later on. If you intervene and repair the damage early, you may effectively avoid more work and more costs later on. That said here are some tips on how to perform repairs on your stairs. Bear in mind that these tips are applicable for stairs made of wood since most are made of it.

    Determine the problem areas. This is definitely the first step. Normally, you will notice squeaks and creaks, not to mention unstable treads when walking up and down the stairs. Your weight on each step will be the first test that you will need to do. Simply walk on a step and sway from left to right. If you feel that the tread board is loose or hear a creaking sound, then that particular step will need repairs.
    To test the riser and well as the stairs foundation, you will want to bounce on each step. If the stairs wobble or vibrate too much, then it could be a problem with the riser or the actual foundation of the staircase.
    Finally, you will want to inspect each part of the staircase as it is highly possible that cracks and gaps in the wood may have developed over time.

    In any case, make sure to take note of each part that needs repair. These will be your focus during the entire activity.
    Repair each step. Now that you have determined the damaged steps on your staircase, the next phase will be to prep each step for repairs. What you will need to do is clear the step and riser of any loose nails. Remove them by prying them out. If all the nails need replacement, then so be it. You will virtually be able to pull the tread board right off of the top of the riser.
    In any case, to repair a step, all you will have to do is hammer in the new nails onto the board towards the riser. This will make the step sturdy. Lacing the bottom of the board, the one that will lay on top of the riser, with wood glue is highly recommended as it will enhance stability.
    Now, if the step or the riser has small cracks, chips, or gaps, consider filling those with wood filler or cement. You can find these at any hardware store. You may also use wood glue if that is the only thing available to you.
    On the other hand, if the board or the riser is damaged beyond repair, consider replacing the step with a fresh board, one that has been cut down to the same specifications and dimensions. Hence, a little carpentry work will be in order, nothing that you can’t handle on your own.


On the off chance that the actual foundation of the staircase is damaged, then you will probably need a carpenter or contractor to fix the problem, since replacement will be your only option.

Friday, March 9, 2012

How To Refinish Linoleum Kitchen Cabinets



Linoleum kitchen cabinets are trickier to handle than cabinet made entirely of wood. They are slippery which makes it a little difficult for paint to adhere on it. Following the correct procedure in handling this type of cabinet, however, can solve this problem. Here’s how you properly refinish linoleum kitchen cabinets:

    Gather the materials. You need rags, newspapers or a drop cloth, a degreasing cleanser, medium-grit and fine-grit sandpapers, a primer, a foam roller, a paintbrush, an interior latex paint, and urethane for this activity. If you are refinishing a lot of linoleum kitchen cabinets, opt to use a palm sander as buffer, instead of sandpapers to make your sanding faster. You can buy palm sanders from home improvement stores. Also, you should have hammers, nails, and other repair tools at hand in case you need to do minor repairs on your cabinets.
    Prepare the kitchen cabinets. Take out all the objects inside your linoleum cabinets and set them aside. Next, remove the cabinets and their shelving from their hinges, and clean them using a rag and a degreasing cleanser. Make sure that you get all the dust and oil that have accumulated on your cabinets. Rinse the cabinets and shelving with a rag moistened with water, and let them dry. When the cabinets and shelving have dried, inspect them for any repair that they need. Fix the damages that you have found to prepare them for sanding.

    Sand the kitchen cabinets. Lay newspapers or a drop cloth on the surface where you’re going to sand the cabinets. Sanding is an important step in refinishing linoleum cabinets. It doesn’t only even out the surface of your cabinets; it also makes the primer adhere better to the cabinet’s slick surface. Sand your kitchen cabinets with the medium-grit sandpaper first to remove hard particles that had formed on your cabinets, followed by the fine-grit sandpaper to smoothen out the cabinets’ surfaces. Remove all the shavings on the cabinets with a damp rag.
    Prime the kitchen cabinets. Putting primer on your linoleum kitchen cabinets makes painting easier. Because of this, you shouldn’t leave out this step in refinishing linoleum kitchen cabinets. Dip a brush into a primer and spread it on the cabinets’ edges and other areas that are difficult to reach by a paint roller. Next, use a paint roller to apply primer on the cabinets. Using a roller instead of a brush in painting makes the painting smooth because of the absence of brush strokes. Air dry the cabinets. If the cabinets’ old paint is still visible under the primer, apply another coat of primer on the cabinets.
    Paint and seal the kitchen cabinets. Paint the cabinets with an interior latex paint. Again, use a paintbrush first to spread a layer of paint on the hard to reach areas of the cabinets. Follow this step with applying paint to the cabinets with a paint roller to eliminate the presence of brush strokes. Let the paint dry. When the paint has dried, inspect the cabinets for drip marks. Smoothen these out by sanding them lightly with fine-grit sandpaper. Apply another coat of paint, if desired. To seal the paint, put a layer of urethane on top of the paint using a paintbrush. Let the seal cure for about a week. Return the cabinets and shelving on their places after sealing.

If your aim is to create a new look for your kitchen, opt to refinish your kitchen cabinets, instead of renovating your whole kitchen. This procedure alone will bring back the glow in your kitchen, making your kitchen seem new again. Refinishing is also cheaper than renovation as you only have to focus on restoring or overhauling a part of your kitchen as opposed to recreating your whole kitchen.

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

How To Refinish Hardwood Floors Without Sanding



It wouldn’t be surprising if the thought of sanding the hardwood floors of your house make you cringe. Sanding leaves your house dusty and may take away the character of your hardwood flooring. It is also an expensive method that may leave a large hole on your pocket.

    You don’t have to sand your hardwood floors to restore them to their original state. You can bring back the warmth and shine of your hardwood flooring by gently buffing it and coating it with polyurethane resin. Given below is the step-by-step procedure:
    Gathering the materials. You need wood filler, fine grade sandpaper, a scraper, a hammer, a polyurethane finish, mineral spirits, a buffing machine, a squeegee sponge mop, and a cotton cloth rag for this activity. If you can’t find a wood color that matches the color of your hardwood flooring, purchase Elmer’s stainable wood filler. This wood filler is uncolored so you can color it with a stain pen that matches the color of your hardwood flooring.
    Prepare your hardwood floors. Remove all the pieces of furniture and the carpet from the room that you’re going to refinish. Inspect the hardwood flooring for any exposed nails or tacking strips. Hammer down the exposed nails you have found and remove the tacking strips with a scraper. Also, look at your hardwood flooring for gaps. Fill in these gaps with wood filler.

    Buff your hardwood floors. Use a buffing machine to lightly scrape the top layer of your hardwood flooring. Work the buffing machine around the whole area of the room. Use a fine grade sandpaper to scour areas that the buffing machine cannot reach. When you’re done buffing your hardwood flooring, moisten a cotton cloth rag with mineral spirits and use it to wipe your hardwood flooring. This procedure will get your hardwood flooring ready for resin application.
    Apply polyurethane resin on your hardwood floors. Put a layer of polyurethane resin on your hardwood flooring using a squeegee sponge mop. Let the resin cure for about twelve hours before walking on the hardwood flooring and putting back the carpet and the furniture.
    If you’re only refinishing hardwood flooring on a small area, you can use a chemical sanding system instead of buffing and coating the area with polyurethane. This method is more convenient as it lets you refinish your hardwood flooring without wiping away wood shavings. You only have to make sure that the room you’re working on is well ventilated to prevent you from inhaling the chemicals of the sanding system.


Do you want to darken the tint of your hardwood flooring? No problem! You can deepen the color of your hardwood floors without refinishing them. Put a pigment of your desired color on a clear urethane and use it to coat your hardwood flooring. It is up to you whether you’d use an oil-based urethane or a water-based one. Just make sure that the tint that you’re going to mix with the urethane is compatible with the urethane. Ask the hardware personnel for information on this. When you’re done applying the colored urethane on your flooring, let it dry and apply a second coat of untainted urethane finish on top of the colored urethane to protect your flooring.

Monday, March 5, 2012

How To Relocate a Thermostat



So the weather is changing and you see the need of relocating your thermostat. There is nothing to worry about if you want to do it yourself instead of calling for the assistance of a professional. There are simple steps you can follow in order to relocate a thermostat. Know how to relocate a thermostat and you can make the most out of having your thermostat in another location.

    Remove the thermostat and write down the color coding or overall look of the wiring and the termination point of every wire. Set out to your furnace to see how the wiring passes through the floor. You can do this with a little help from someone who can tug the wiring from upstairs so that you will know from the downstairs what wire moves. Colored tapes will help on identifying every wire.
    After locating the wiring and the source, drill a hole through the wall depending on what height you want the thermostat to be relocated. Set out to the basement and drill another hole where the wire must be fished through. Have a fish tape and have it fished through the wall. Make sure that it heads to the larger hole.


Once the tape has already run through the frame from the new location for the thermostat, it is time to have the wires settled. Have the wires you have markers pulled from the old location of the thermostat. Make sure that the loop end of the tape is securely taped. Take note that if there is a need to splice more wires into the old one, you can do so, especially if you want to guarantee that there is sufficient wiring for the new location of the thermostat.
Up until you locate the wire, have the tape pulled. By then, it is time to get rid of the the wire off the fish line. Leave about half a foot of it when cutting it out of the wall. Terminate every wire depending on how you have noted it earlier and strip them. If there is any excess wire, push them into the wall to hide them. You can now mount the thermostat on its new location.
If it is possible to have a board at the back of the area of the wall that has a hole in it, use a screwdriver in screwing a board at that portion. Have a piece of drywall screwed also into it. Use a tape that is specifically for drywall in taping. If it is necessary, consider applying a few coats of drywall compound. Just make sure that before every application, the prior application must be dried first. After the application of the drywall compound, follow it up with the sanding of the surface to make it smooth. You can also paint it for additional decoration.
Always be careful whenever you use the materials for this project. Safety gears are just some of what you can take advantage of when it comes to protecting yourself from harm during the relocation of your thermostat.