How To Start Seedlings for your Garden

Seedlings save you time and effort by allowing you to skip over the delicate seed phase of a plant's life. However, seedlings are still in a fragile stage of development, and a novice gardener will need to prepare adequately in order to prove his green thumb.

Here are the steps to start seedlings for your garden.

    Prepare four-inch pots for seedlings. Fill the pots just below the rim with potting mix. You can buy the mix in a gardening store or make them yourself with a blend of peat moss.
    Transfer the seedlings from their old pots to their new ones. Lift the old pots, turn them upside down then press on all the sides. The potting mix should then be loosened enough to be released; you can also slit the sides of the old pot to allow for additional pressure. Carefully remove the soil ball from the fragile root system.
    Create a hole in the potting mix to fit in the roots of the seedling. Cup the soil ball with your hand to support it during transfer. Gently insert the seedling into the pot, fill in the roots with the surrounding mix then water the seedling. Set the pot under a bright light, but avoid direct sunlight for now. Add liquid fertilizer on a regular basis to provide adequate nutrients to them.

    Prevent fungal infestation. If your seedlings suddenly wither and die, there’s a good chance a fungal growth has gotten to it at the roots. Use pasteurized potting mix and clean and bleach the pots thoroughly before use. You can also space the seedlings so that the fungus won't transfer through all of them. Thinning them out is also required once they develop their second set of true leaves. You may either transfer excess seedlings to another yard or dispose of them.
    Learn about your seedlings' specific needs. Many edible plants need plenty of light in order to grow. If natural light is unavailable, you will need to install florescent lighting for the seedlings. Other summer-attuned seedlings need a warm bed of soil to continue its development. You will then need a heating mat to warm the potting mix for the next couple of weeks. Both florescent lighting and heating mat can be purchased in gardening stores.
    Harden your seedlings before transferring them to open ground. Pot-grown seedlings that are grown using controlled conditions may lack the toughness it needs to deal with the elements. You will need to gradually expose the seedlings to outdoor conditions. Lay them outside in direct sunlight for a few hours then lengthen the time they are outdoors during the succeeding days. You can also use this technique for cold weather. Avoid over-hardening your seedlings, however, as some plants can bolt (flower prematurely) when exposed again and again to cold weather.


Seedling care is among the more advanced gardening skills, and requires a balance of nurturing, monitoring and protection in order to succeed. Once you go past the seedling phase, taking care of the plants will be less of a hassle as they will develop hardier systems to resist adverse conditions.

How To Stop Mushrooms from Growing

Mushrooms may be fine on the dinner table, but when small and inedible wild mushrooms start growing in your lawn, it can be quite disgusting. If you want to prevent mushrooms from growing in your house or in the lawn, here are some steps that you need to follow.

    Dry. First of all, you need to make sure that your house is as dry as possible. Remember, a mushroom is a type of fungus that needs very few things in order to survive. One of the things that it does need in order to live, however, is some water. If a place is moist and not enough sunlight gets into the area, fungi and mushrooms can begin to grow. By keeping your house dry at all times, you should be able to prevent mushrooms from growing. This can, however, be a bit difficult when talking about your yard, which you probably need to keep, watered to keep the grass alive.
    Cut. Next, make sure that you cut down some of the larger tree branches that obstruct sunlight from getting to your lawn. Apart from moisture, mushrooms thrive in places that have plenty of shade. By making sure that you remove the excessive branches in the trees in your backyard, you should be able to prevent mushrooms from growing near the trunk, or in the shade of the tree. The next time you consider planting trees in your backyard, also try choosing trees that grow tall, but which do not have branches that spread out too much.

    Clean. Also make sure that you clean your surroundings regularly. If there are cans or containers lying around where water can collect, make sure that you dispose of these items or that you cover them. This way, mushrooms will not grow inside of these old and dirty cans. Also make sure that you remove dead plants and rotting wood from your yard. These contain nitrates that mushrooms love. After you have finished mowing your lawn, also be sure to collect the cut leaves so that they will not become fodder for mushrooms.
    Fungicide. If cleaning, cutting, and keeping your surroundings dry is not enough to prevent mushrooms from growing around your house, you should consider using fungicide. As much as possible, the use of fungicide should only be a last resort. After all, fungicide can disrupt the beneficial microorganisms that are living in the soil. When you use fungicide, be sure to read the instructions and labels well, and make sure that you apply the fungicide only in areas where you have seen mushrooms grow. These fungicide are usually available in hardware shops.
    Lime. Finally, you can also consider adding some lime in your soil. Lime is much friendlier on the soil compared to fungicide, and will only work to reduce the acidity in the soil. Because mushrooms usually grow best in soil that is fairly acidic, adding a little bit of lime in the soil may help to eradicate mushrooms.


With these easy steps, you should be able to easily prevent mushrooms from growing, and kill the mushrooms that are already in your house.

How To Clean a Pool

Step 1

Tile cleaning has two aspects - the removal of the streak formed by the accumulation of grime, all lotions and other skin applications, and the removal of the deposit formation or lime scale due to the hardness of water. Dirt line can be removed by brushing the dirt line with tile cleaners specially meant for this, while using a pumice stone is a good way to tackle the hard water deposits. Unless this brushing and cleaning is regularly done, the deposits and dirt can become stubborn streaks of algae and dirt. While brushing, ensure that pump is at maximum suction and the brushing is from the dirt line towards the deep end and the main drain. Some algae and dirt also beat a path directly from grassy and green pathways to the pool. Keeping your pool surroundings tiled or the greenery trimmed clear off the path will help.
Step 2

Surface cleaning -Confirm that the skimmer weir and the filtration system are working fine. If there is no skimmer weir in the pool, all the surface cleaning will have to be done manually, a leaf net being an ideal device for collecting and removing all drifting leaves and other foreign objects. Using a rake helps in gathering the muck on the surface. All the collected debris should be bagged and trashed as dried debris lying around will find its way back when it's windy. Squeezing some tile cleaner all along the pool will make any surface froth gather at the pool edges, making for easier cleaning. If the pool is located in an area which collects a lot of rubbish, then it may be necessary to check if this has also piled up at the pool bottom. If yes, remove with a leaf bagger or leaf net. An alternative is to fix, to the suction hose at the skimmer, a leaf catcher during vacuuming. Ensure that the water level is always at the skimmer level and never below.
Step 3

Regular inspection. Ensure that you inspect and clean the skimmer basket daily and the pump strainer basket weekly, so that filtering and suction runs properly.
Step 4

Examine, clean, tune and recharge the filter so that it works at its optimum efficiency. Check the starting pressure levels and the suction strength which are the indicators for a service. While servicing, ensure that all parts of the filet are also fine and working well. The pump also needs to be serviced regularly.
Step 5

Vacuum the pool weekly once at least, increasing the regularity in windy weather. Keep in mind that the vacuum hose has to be cleared of any air before attaching to the suction point. ‘Vacuuming to waste', through a setting on a multiport valve, is the most efficient cleaning method in situations where there is larger piling of debris, but this will also increase the amount of water spent.
Step 6

Clean the decking area. Use a high pressure cleaner along with a 5% chlorine solution is also necessary to eliminate bacteria and check infection. Prior to moving the cover, ensure that almost all the dirt from the deck and cover is cleaned and the cover is neatly kept in a clean area.
Step 7

Proper storage of tools. A mechanic is only as good as his tools. Store your tools and accessories as recommended in the manual and away from direct sunlight.

After all that work, the pool is now ready for you and that first dip will make all your cleaning efforts worthwhile. The rest of the swim is just the icing on the cake.

How To Grow a Moss Garden: Landscaping Ideas

Samurai movies, anime, and moss gardens... what do they have in common? All three rose to popularity in Japan before moving west into our cultural consciousness. In the case of moss gardens, the Japanese have been growing them for centuries; from a religious perspective, moss gardens have been thought to elicit a calm, contemplative state of mind.

There are many different mosses from which to choose as you plan your garden - yellows, greens, browns, even white varieties. Some, like cushion mosses, provide just what their name suggests, while rock cap mosses naturally offer a vibrant covering on any large rocks you'd like to put in your garden. Some plants that we consider mosses are technically not moss at all, but rather are classified as liverworts or hornworts. These plants look and behave similarly to moss. As they are all non-vascular plants, they lack roots, leaves and stems.

Why would you want to start a moss garden (or simply let your current mosses live and thrive, as the case may be)? Here are a few good reasons.

    In many cases, they're heartier than our ornamental grasses and flowers. Mosses thrive on water and low sunlight - good news for the many moss-lovers who live in temperate areas with lots of annual rainfall. Seattleites, why do you labor ceaselessly over your Kentucky bluegrass and flowers when moss would yield beautiful, robust growth with practically no help from you? Many people plant grass every year where it just won't grow due to low sunlight; moss would grow there in a heartbeat! If you live in dry, arid climates, moss gardens aren't the most practical landscaping idea.
    They don't contribute to your pollen allergies. Grass and other pollen allergies are some of the most common causes of runny nose, watery eyes, itchy throat and sneezing that many people experience in summer months. Why exacerbate your allergy problems with what you grow in your own yard? Make your yard a sanctuary by nurturing that moss instead of killing it in favor of grasses.
    Moss-killing chemicals and fertilizers. Across our country, fish are dying and our freshwaters growing increasingly contaminated by the chemicals we use to nurture our artificial gardens and lawns. Chemicals used to eradicate moss, as well as chemical fertilizers used to promote flower growth in conventional gardens, enter the runoff water that flows into storm drains and eventually rivers. By embracing mosses and appreciating them for their natural beauty, we can also reduce our ongoing pollution and keep freshwater fish alive and healthy.
    Aesthetic beauty. Have you ever wandered through a forest after rainfall and admired the bright mossy beds catching the glint of sun under a big tree? Grass could never look so brilliant. You could achieve that same beauty in your own backyard by growing a moss garden!

As I said earlier, certain environments will be better suited for cultivation of a moss garden.  First, it's important to understand the basic principles of landscaping -  instantlandscapingideas.com has lots of excellent tips you can use when you're planning your new garden design.
Here are some guidelines as you plan your own moss garden.Water. Some mosses can survive lengthy drhow to grow mossy periods, recovering quickly once they get moisture again. Most mosses, however, require moisture and low sunlight in order to thrive. If the location already has moss growing, that's generally an excellent indication that the place is hospitable to all mosses. Once your garden is thriving, the only care it generally requires is some misting with water during any dry spell.Shade.  Unlike plants that need full sun, moss prefers to grow in part sun. In fact, moss is a great addition to any shade garden. The majority fare better in shady conditions, or at least places where they don't face constant sun exposure. A moderate amount of sun is fine. In sunnier areas, you can plan the location of your moss garden on the shady side of a large tree. In the northern hemisphere, therefore, it's best to plant on the northern side of a tree, whereas the reverse is true in the southern hemisphere. Again, if you choose a spot that already has mosses, you'll enjoy success with a moss garden.

    If part of your desired moss garden location has more sun exposure, in those spots try to plant mosses that aren't as shade-dependent. Bryum mosses, found commonly on walls or in cracks along the sidewalk, fare better than most in direct sunlight. Grimmia moss is another variety to consider for patches of heavier sun exposure.
    Preparing the soil. Weed the soil bed and remove any grasses. Moss will likely kill the grasses anyway, but removing any grass presence beforehand can ensure that your moss garden grows without any competition.
    Transplanting moss. Many of you already have mosses growing in your yard. Lucky you - you can just cut a chunk of moss mat and then move it to the desired location for your garden. When you transplant a mat of moss, moisten both soil and moss mat before you plant it in place. Make sure it rests at the same level as the rest of the ground around it. Most importantly, pack the soil tightly around and beneath it.

    If you have no moss in your yard already, or if you simply want other varieties, you can look for mosses at garden stores. However, mosses aren't always commonly found for sale at these stores. But don't lose hope - look for mosses in your friends' yards and in other areas of public property where growth is probably undesired (like pavement cracks). You might even find what you're looking for at one of a few sites (like Moss Acres) that sell and ship chunks of common moss varieties.

    You don't even need moss mats, as a matter of fact (good news when it comes time to cull moss from a crack in the pavement). Though live moss mats are the best method for transplanting, you could also just pull up some moss with your hands, throw it into a blender with some diluted buttermilk (naturally!) and then spread this cocktail over the designated soil bed. In several weeks, you should start to see the moss growing.

Instead of constantly fighting a losing battle as you attempt to preserve the health of fragile, decorative flowers and grasses, consider the mossy alternative. A moss garden might just help you reconnect with the serenity of nature.

How To Get Rid of Bed Bugs - DIY and Exterminators

"Good night, sleep tight, don't let the bed bugs bite." This common goodnight verse may be truer than you think. Bed bugs are worldwide travelers, notorious for latching on to luggage items and stowing away to a new destination. When you consider all of the travelers and the hotels and motels all over the world, it is easy to understand why bed bugs seem to be making a comeback.

Where do bed bugs come from? Bed bugs are very small, and often make their way into your house after traveling. Bedbugs often end up infesting entire apartment buildings or hotels - and it can be very expensive to get rid of them on that kind of a scale. Here's more information about this notorious traveler:

    Bed Bugs- A bed bug is typically a brownish colored, wingless insect between one fourth and a half-inch long. They look a lot like ticks - please see the bed bug pictures below. Bed bugs can survive for up to a year without feeding on a blood source, so figuring out how to kill bed bugs is a real challenge. These parasites are able to hide in small cracks and crevices, are difficult to find, and even harder to eradicate. Females can lay up to 300 eggs, which hatch within ten days, thus creating an ever-growing population.
    Bed Bug Bites- Often, bed bug bites are the easiest way to tell you have bedbugs. A bed bug's main source of nutrition is blood, and they bite using their beaklike mouths, piercing the skin. Different people react to bed bug bites in different ways. Some may never know they've been bitten, while others may experience severe inflammation and possible infection as some of their bed bug symptoms. Most of the bites are so small that they can't be felt. However, a typical sign of a bed bug bite is a small, swollen, white welt that forms at the bite location. Many people who have been bitten by bed bugs experience pronounced itching in the bite area. Please be aware: although most bedbug bites are just annoying, some people experience asthma, hives, and even dangerous, life-threatening allergies. 

Finding Bed Bugs-Bed bugs are good at hiding. In fact, you really have to search and know what you are looking for before you may find a bed bug. In many instances, evidence of a bed bug is discovered rather than the actual bug itself. Rusty spots on sheets and mattresses caused by a crushed bug or a bug's fecal matter (which looks like tiny black specks or very small dots of blood) may be the first indication that a bed bug infestation has occurred, along with eggshells and shed skin. Most bed bugs can be found in the crevices and cracks of mattresses, chairs, and sofas. They are often found between the headboard and a wall as well. Because bed bugs prefer wood and fabric over plastic and metal, they tend to dwell in the more lived-in areas of a home or building, such as a bedroom or hotel room. If you aren't sure whether you have bed bugs, many exterminators can give your home a professional inspection. While some pest control companies will do this for free, other exterminators charge up to $200. There are even specialized bed bug exterminator companies that use trained dogs to sniff out bed bugs - however, this service is significantly more expensive than a standard inspection. Still, dogs can help you find out if you have a bed bug infestation.

    Getting Rid of Bed Bugs- Once an infestation has occurred, patience and persistence is the key to ridding the area of bed bugs. If you are determined to get rid of bed bugs yourself, without hiring an exterminator, it isn't enough to clean the mattresses and launder the sheets. Furniture should be overturned and cleaned. Carpeting, wood molding, door jambs, picture frames, and closets should be inspected as well. Bed bugs can hide behind loose wallpaper, in the crevices between carpets and walls, behind outlet covers, and inside light fixtures, smoke detectors, and even clocks. Removable, washable items can be laundered in very hot water. For those areas or items that cannot be laundered, smaller items can be wrapped in plastic and set in a hot place or in direct sunlight. The key is to raise the temperature to at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit for several hours to kill the eggs and the bugs. Vacuuming and steam cleaning may also be done, but any bags or canisters should be thrown away or emptied outside of the area immediately to prevent another infestation. Unfortunately, it's very hard to find all bed bugs and all bed bug eggs; that's why the best method of removing them is through the services of a professional.

    When choosing a professional bed bug exterminator, be careful! Many companies that only specialize in bedbugs aren't as qualified as full-service pest control companies. Your best bet is to find an established pest control service company that has been in service for at least five years - and you might also ask around and see if anybody you know or look at review sites (like yelp.com) to see if there are recommendations for any specific pest control services. Also, make sure the pest control company you choose is certified in your state. Exterminators can be pretty expensive; expect to pay between $250 to $1,000 per room. You'll also want to make sure you choose a pest control company that will make follow-up visits - these are usually necessary for bed bug elimination.

    Once you sift through the exterminators and make a decision, make sure they are using effective pesticides and bed bug control methods. Usually, exterminators will use a combination of pesticides and steam heat - bed bugs only die from heat if the temperature is at least 120 degrees Fahrenheit that's sustained for several hours. Do not use a pest control company that uses bug foggers or bug bombs as their method for bed bugs; these methods do not work. The only effective bed bug extermination methods for pesticides include direct contact.

    Don't Try These Methods-Finally, there are several methods that are totally useless and shouldn't even be considered. Bug bombs and aerosol pesticides will not rid an area of bed bugs. While extreme hot and cold temperatures may affect the infestation, below freezing temperatures will only work if those temperatures remain below freezing for over two weeks.

How To Choose a Snow Blower: Electric Snow Blower

If you live in an area that receives a lot of snow every winter, you know that the first snowfall is a fun novelty.  Every one after that is hard work!  The biggest job that needs to be done is clearing the driveway and sidewalk--and the best way to make this tough job easier is with a snow blower (or snow thrower, as they're more accurately called). Get tips to find the best one for you.

    Do you need a single-stage or two-stage snow blower?  There are many differences between the two types.  Single-stage snow blowers have a metal and rubber auger that spins very quickly, contacts the ground and scoops up the snow, directing it into a discharge chute, which throws it out of your path.  Single-stage snow blowers are also lighter and generally require less maintenance than two-stage blowers.  The drawbacks of single-stage blowers are that they have two-cycle engines, which create more emissions and require you to mix oil and gasoline before filling the tank.  Also, because the auger contacts the ground, you cannot use them on gravel surfaces, unless your goal is to have small rocks flying toward you and the windows in your home.  Single-stage snow blowers do not have as much power as two-stage blowers, so they're not appropriate for areas that receive more than six inches in one snowfall or that receive heavy, wet snow.

    Two-stage snow blowers are heavier and more expensive than single-stage blowers, but the clearing path is wider, usually between 20 and 31 inches.  Unlike a single-stage blower, two-stage snow blowers have a slow-turning metal auger that scoops up the snow, which is then sucked up by an impeller and thrown out through the discharge chute.  The auger on a two-stage blower doesn't touch the ground, so they can be used on gravel.  You will need to be sure to set the scraper bar high enough that it doesn't contact the gravel.

    Two-stage snow blowers will handle most wet, heavy snowfalls with ease, as well as deeper snowfalls of up to twelve inches.  In addition, two-stage blowers are self-propelled, so you only need to guide them.  This doesn't necessarily mean they're easy to handle, as anyone who's ever been covered in a mountain of snow tossed by his own snow blower can attest!  Most two-stage blowers have at least two forward speeds and one reverse speed.  They also have a four-cycle engine, which is cleaner and doesn't require mixed fuel.  One disadvantage is that they do not provide as clear a path as a single-stage blower, since the auger never touches the ground.

    Once you've decided which kind of snow blower is right for you, you'll need to decide how wide its clearing path should be.  As mentioned before, single-stage blowers have a narrower clearing path than two-stage blowers, although within these general guidelines, there is a lot of variation.  Some factors to consider in this decision are:  How much space do you have in which to store your snow blower and how comfortable are you in handling it?  A machine with a wider clearing path will obviously take up more space in your garage and be more difficult to handle, especially when turning.
    Next, decide which options are most important to you.  You'll probably want a discharge chute that can be adjusted while the machine is in use, so that you don't throw snow onto an area that you just finished clearing.  Some machines have a manual crank which is located on the handle.  Others have a joystick, which mechanically controls the direction of the chute.  Either one will work just fine for most people--it's simply a matter of personal preference.  Another option that's very useful during the short days of winter is a headlight.  If you find yourself spending a lot of time clearing snow in the dark, this can be a worthwhile investment.  If you do not enjoy the thought of standing around trying to get your snow blower started in the cold, you may want an electric start.  Some snow blowers also have heated handgrips as an option!
    If you receive only occasional, light snowfalls or have a very small space to clear, you may want to consider an electric snow blower.  You will have to contend with a power cord if you choose an electric snow blower, so you'll need to make sure you have both a long extension cord and a nearby outlet.  Another option for very light snowfalls is a power shovel.  These look like a combination of a weed trimmer and a scoop shovel.  They have an auger in front which blows the snow in your path ahead of you.  These do not have wheels, so they are not appropriate for heavier snowfalls.

Now you can pick the best snow blowers for your needs. With a little bit of planning, these tools will turn a tedious, time-consuming task into a quick, (almost) easy job!

Caring for a Lawn: Watering, Mowing, Weed Control, Fertilizers

Chemical lawn care is a ruse, a marketing scheme. Grass, as all gardeners know, is a tenacious weed that needs little help to be healthy. But Americans weaken their lawns with unnecessary chemicals, harsh fertilizing salts, and improper cutting and lawn watering, causing lawn problems.

Grow the right grass at the right height and you will be amazed at how easy care of a great expanse of green can be. Here are some lawn care tips to help you along and teach you how to care for your lawn without the help of any companies. 

    Plant the right grass. Growing the right grass the right way depends on where you live.
        In the North, you want a "cool-season" grass. Always green over winter, it may go brown and dormant during a hot and dry spell in late summer, but will quickly green up again when cool weather returns.
        In the South, go "warm season". Always green over the summer, it may go brown and dormant during a winter cold snap, but will green up again when the weather warms.
        In the "Transition Zone" in the middle of the country, choose 'cool' or 'warm' depending on which spell of potential dormancy would bother you more, or mix similar-looking cool and warm season grasses to try and achieve a multi-grass lawn that's green all year.
    Plant at the right time of year. Planting grass depends on if you live in a cool or warm season area, so the best time to plant grass seed varies.
        Cool-season grasses should only be sown in the fall-August 1-15 for the far North; August 15 - 30 for more moderate Northern climes. Cool season seed that's sown in the spring will burn up when summer's heat fries the young growth.
        Warm season grasses should be sown in the spring, as soon as the soil is warm enough to germinate the seed.
        If you can't wait and must plant at the wrong time of year, lay sod instead. It's much more expensive than seed, but does well pretty much anytime of the year if kept watered.
    Feed correctly Lawn care and fertilization go hand-in-hand.

    Cool season grasses should get their biggest feeding in the fall. Lawn fertilizers can consist of an inch of compost applied to the surface and raked-in will provide the perfect amount of food and improve the structure of the soil below. Feed again lightly in the spring; 10 to 20 pounds of corn gluten meal per thousand square feet of turf will prevent dormant weed seeds like crabgrass from germinating and provide a natural feeding. Be sure its labeled as a natural pre-emergent weed and feed ('cattle feed' corn gluten will not work); and apply it before local forsythia bushes reach peak bloom or those weed seeds will have already germinated.
    Warm season grasses should get three equal feedings in June, July and August; an inch of compost or 10 pounds of corn gluten is ideal for each feeding.
    NOTE: Pre-emergents prevent the germination of ALL seeds. Do not use corn gluten when you seed a lawn.

Cut at the right height. Lawn mowing is different throughout the country and the height you need to cut will vary.

    Cool season grasses in full sun, like the legendary Kentucky bluegrass, should be cut at two to three inches high. Shade-loving fescues at three to three and a half inches.
    Warm season grasses thrive with a closer cut-around two inches for St. Augustine and Bermuda grass.
    NOTE: Those are the heights the lawn should be AFTER you're done cutting. "Scalping a lawn" lower sends it into shock and makes it vulnerable to pests, weeds, disease and weeds, which makes weed control a nightmare. A high cut lawn will look greener, grow slower and resist stress better.

Cut correctly. Replace your mower blade every season; it won't cost much more than getting it sharpened and will give you a much cleaner cut. Never remove more than a third of the lawn's height in any one mowing.
Use a mulching mower. These specialized cutters have no discharge; their sealed decks and ultra-sharp blades cut and re-cut the clippings until they are returned to the lawn as a fine pulverized powder. Rich in grass-feeding nitrogen, those clips provide half the food your grass needs in a season. AND MULCHING DOESN'T CAUSE THATCH! Thatch is caused by overuse of chemical fertilizers, not returning natural nutrients to your lawn.
Water wisely. Never water during the heat of the day or in the evening. The ideal time is in the early morning. Don't water in short spurts. Deliver a deep soaking when you water to encourage deep roots. Take special care when watering a new lawn.

    In the North, water when you have gone a week without an inch of rain. Deliver that inch in one long soaking, which should take several hours.
    In the South, your lawn will need two inches of water a week in summer. Supply whatever nature doesn't in long, inch-deep soakings.